This post began as an article about water conservation and water catchment systems. I still intend to write that post later, but in the process of researching water catchment systems I got sidetracked. Like any living system, a house is hard to separate into its parts. Once you start looking into one part, you can’t help but see the interconnections.
So, this post isn’t about water catchment systems, in fact it’s not even about water. This post is about roofs. Specifically, metal roofs and why I am a convert to this type of roofing.
In my research about the best roofs for water catchment systems, metal roofs kept showing up as the superior choice. That’s one reason why I became convinced that metal roofs are the preferred material . But it’s not even the best reason.
Water conservation can wait. You are going to want to know about metal roofs first.
Here are what I consider to be the reasons everyone should want a metal roof:
• Metal Roofs are Cooler (as in temperature, but they’re pretty hip as well)
The Department of Energy reports that buildings use 2/3 of all the electricity and 1/3 of all primary energy consumed in the country. The type of roofing on a structure can significantly impact the energy use of the building in terms of cooling and heating energy requirements. Reflective roofing can directly save up to 40% in energy costs. Cool roofs are those with radiative properties that reduce the surface temperature, minimize the amount of heat transferred into the living space, and reduce the heat released from the surface to the ambient air. The Florida Solar Energy Center (FSEC), after studying the cooling energy of identical size, unoccupied homes, concluded that a white painted metal roof could save the typical Florida homeowner 23% annually in their cooling energy costs, compared to a dark gray asphalt shingle roof.
In terms of style, the choices in metal roofing go beyond just white paint. The family of metal roofing contains unpainted natural metal surfaces, prepainted metal surfaces, and granular-coated metal surfaces. A recent technological improvement in the use of infrared reflective pigments allows for more solar radiation to be reflected even with darker colors. This advance is allowing for popular colors other than white to be considered cool roofing.
• Metal Roofs are Eligible for Incentives and Rebates
The 2009 Stimulus Package provides substantial tax credits to homeowners who make energy efficient updates to their home. One of the best ways to qualify for the credit is installation of a painted or coated Energy Star labeled metal roof. Homeowners installing qualified roofs in 2009 and 2010 may be eligible for a tax credit worth up to 30% of the materials cost up to $1500 per home.
• Metal Roofs Ease Urban Heat
Urban areas are prevalent with dark building materials, dark pavements and dark roofs that absorb solar radiation and become hot. In addition, the lower amount of vegetation in the urban areas, compared with the surrounding suburban areas, contributes to the warming. Because of this, urban temperatures are 6-12 degrees higher than the surrounding suburbs and rural areas. The higher air temperature increases smog and requires buildings to use more energy to keep cool. The Lawrence Berkeley National Laboratory conducted a computer simulation estimating the impact of reflectance and emittance on heating and cooling energy consumption and concluded that $750 million could be saved annually by the use of light-colored reflective roofs.
• Metal Roofs are Sustainable
In addition to its energy efficiency benefits, metal roofs are also incredibly environmentally friendly. Metal roofs are extremely durable over time. Metal roofing withstands harsh weather including high winds, hail, ice and snow loads. It can also withstand the wet/dry cycles that often destroy other materials. The durability of prepainted metal roofing is important since over time conventional roofs can become soiled by air pollutants, biological growth, and general degradation. These factors impact the reflectance values and therefore the energy costs of a building. Prepainted metal was found to retain almost 95% of its initial solar reflectance over three years of exposure. As a comparison, some membrane roofing products and white coatings showed a 40% and 25% drop in reflectance, respectively, over the same exposure period. Given the energy savings of metal roofs, and the projected life span of 30-50 years, metal roofs more than pay for themselves.
Metal roofs typically have a minimum of 25% recycled material and can be completely recycled when they are removed from a building. Compare that to typical roofing material that is often classified as hazardous waste when it is removed and routinely ends up in landfills.
The weight of a metal roof can be as little as 1/8 that of conventional roofing shingles. The lower weight, but higher strength, of a metal roof means that metal roofing can be installed over old roofing material without tear off and disposal. However, in my personal opinion, while it may be cost effective to install the metal roof over old roofing, I find it best just to start new and dispose of the old roof first.
• Metal Roofs are Cost Effective
Metal roofing material comes in a variety of styles and colors and therefore the price can vary anywhere from $1.50-$5.00 per linear foot and can be even higher for specialty systems. For example, there are metal panels, metal shingles, metal slate, metal shake, and metal tile roofing. I should make the caveat that, like other green home improvements, initially the total cost of material for a metal roof may be more than a shingle roof. However in my experience, installation is faster on a metal roof than a shingle roof and therefore labor costs are less expensive. Additionally, considering how long metal roofs last, the higher initial cost of the metal roof is more than made up for over time.
• Metal Roofs are Excellent for Water Catchment Systems
In terms of water catchment systems, metal roofs have the advantage as they have a slicker surface, so they don’t collect as much debris and dirt to be filtered. With other systems, you have to worry about grit, bird droppings, pathogens, toxins leached from the roof materials, and bacterial growth. In fact, a study by Oak Ridge National Laboratory found that metal roofing products resisted the growth of biomass which can lead to mold or fungus.
The only warning with metal roof catchment systems is to be careful of copper roofs. Copper is toxic and low pH rainwater will erode it a bit. If you are going to use the water for drinking, you should test it to make sure the copper level isn’t too high.
Given these benefits of metal roofing, I think you can see how I could get sidetracked. There are green technologies out there that apply new and complex solutions to difficult problems. However, I enjoy the beauty of a simple, traditional solution to creating a more environmentally friendly, comfortable home.
References
Kriner, S. “Architects Turn to Cool Metal Roofing in North America.” International Conference on Building Envelope Systems and Technologies
Oak Ridge National Laboratory. “Cool Metal Roofing: The Energy-Efficient Choice.” Buildings Technology Center
www.metalroofing.com/v2/content/guide/costs/energy-tax-incentive.cfm
Schneider, Jim. “Catch the Rain: Metal Roofs Provide an Ideal Platform for Rainwater Capture.” Metalmag, February 2010
www.bestbuymetals.com
Tuesday, August 31, 2010
Wednesday, June 30, 2010
Dealbreakers: What really matters when buying a house?
Jeff and I were watching "House Hunters" the other night (gotta love Hulu). After about 3 episodes I turned to Jeff and asked him “Why do all of these people focus only on the tile and paint in these new houses? Shouldn’t they be inspecting the roof or something?” He laughed and replied:
“Because that’s the way most people go about buying a house. Bankers know banking, teachers know teaching, and most of us don’t know much about houses and why they are the way they are. The best house/homeowner relationship is one of interaction where you participate in the system of the house. Sustainable living isn’t just about energy; it’s about your relationship to your environment. In the summer you open your windows at night to let the cool night breeze in, or you turn on your attic fan for fifteen minutes. In the morning after the cool subsides you close up to keep the heat out. You work with your house and its systems for maximum performance. You change filters, you open and close shades. The better the house is designed the more control you will have over its workings and the easier it is to keep your energy bills down.”
It’s hard to know what Jeff’s reaction to any HGTV show will be depending on which side of his brain is dominant at the moment. He has a great eye for design and style (right brain), but also understands structure and interconnectedness of parts (left-brain). Unfortunately, most of the conversations he has with homeowners are more of a "Holmes on Homes" type of conversation. He has to try to explain what the builder or remodeler was thinking and why it must now be corrected.
My point is, paint and tile can be replaced, but a cracked foundation (much like a cracked rib) must be repaired for structural integrity. And like a cracked rib, unlike say a cracked tooth, the end result is the satisfaction that your house won’t fall over, but it isn’t something you’re going to show off to your friends. (I mean really, how many people just can’t wait to show off their new grade beam?) The structures that make a house and the overall design of the house are the parts that matter the most. They cannot be discounted in the buying experience.
Enter the inspector. An inspector can give you information about your house and diagnose some problems before you buy. Inspectors are worthwhile to get a general visual assessment, and may be required by the bank, but any inspection is superficial. They can’t see into the wall or check for underground foundation drains. Some things are unknowable until you are living in the house. In addition to that, the inspector rarely knows much about how a design will impact a livable space. For example, is there passive solar, airflow, enough insulation? For a more thorough assessment, you can always have a builder, or someone else who is knowledgeable and trustworthy, look at the house as well. And research, research, research. On the upside, from a fiscal point of view, if you can catch a major problem, you can usually ask for a price reduction from the seller.
This may seem discouraging. Is home buying just a crapshoot? All of this made me start thinking about the important things to look for when shopping for a new house, particularly if you are open to remodeling. What matters, what doesn’t?
What are important things to look for when inspecting a house?
Here’s what we came up with:
Top Six Areas to Inspect in a Home:
1. The roof
The roof protects the whole house. It is the first line of defense against seasonal elements. There are many signs of a bad roof (curling, blistering, buckling, ceiling stains, faulty gutters) and a good inspector should notice serious problems by inspecting on the roof and inside attic spaces. However, knowing the age of your roof can help you determine when you may start to experience problems.
2. The foundation
The foundation is, quite literally, the rock upon which your house is built. It should be inspected for cracks, water damage, settling, and if possible, drainage. Age can be a factor in the integrity of a foundation, in addition to the region in which you live and the site on which the house sits.
3. Water damage/mold of any kind
Visually, mold or water damage is most common on ceilings, around sinks, toilets, and tubs in your bathroom or kitchen, around windows (both inside and out), and in soft peeling paint on the exterior of the house. Mold can also be smelled, especially in basements and crawl spaces under the house. Mold is an indication of a bigger problem in addition to being a potential health risk.
4. Home-grown electrical work/Bad wiring
Why oh why do people try to save money by doing their own electrical work? Faulty wiring is one of the leading causes of home fires every year. Exposed wires, uncovered electrical boxes, excessive use of electrical tape, and a general disorderly tangled mess are telltale signs of improper installations. A proper home inspection can usually determine if the loads are too much for the electrical service panel to handle.
5. High monthly energy bill
The energy bill gives you a good estimate of what you can expect to pay out every month. It can also point to insulation deficiencies, heating and cooling problems, or the need for window replacements. A home energy audit is the most easily available method of determining if your home is running efficiently and what aspects need to be fixed.
6. Plumbing
The pipes bringing you your drinking water are important for your health. Galvanized pipes are known to cause cancer. PVC easily freezes in winter and can break or leak. Copper and PEX piping are your best options for safe, healthy drinking water. You should inspect under sinks and in the basement and crawl spaces for any leaking pipes.
In the end taking your time and walking thru a house can tell you a lot. If you have access to the attic all the better. Make sure everything is dry. If it's the dry season be on the look-out for stains or mold. Try to find out how old the furnace or air conditioner is. Turn the faucet knobs on and off to see if they work. Don't be fooled by a fresh coat of paint. And if you really can't tell, ask a builder or remodeler to inspect it for you. A small fee can save you a lot of money.
These areas may not make for good television, but in the long run they will lead to peace of mind and allow you to focus on the more fun aspects of transforming your new house into your home.
“Because that’s the way most people go about buying a house. Bankers know banking, teachers know teaching, and most of us don’t know much about houses and why they are the way they are. The best house/homeowner relationship is one of interaction where you participate in the system of the house. Sustainable living isn’t just about energy; it’s about your relationship to your environment. In the summer you open your windows at night to let the cool night breeze in, or you turn on your attic fan for fifteen minutes. In the morning after the cool subsides you close up to keep the heat out. You work with your house and its systems for maximum performance. You change filters, you open and close shades. The better the house is designed the more control you will have over its workings and the easier it is to keep your energy bills down.”
It’s hard to know what Jeff’s reaction to any HGTV show will be depending on which side of his brain is dominant at the moment. He has a great eye for design and style (right brain), but also understands structure and interconnectedness of parts (left-brain). Unfortunately, most of the conversations he has with homeowners are more of a "Holmes on Homes" type of conversation. He has to try to explain what the builder or remodeler was thinking and why it must now be corrected.
My point is, paint and tile can be replaced, but a cracked foundation (much like a cracked rib) must be repaired for structural integrity. And like a cracked rib, unlike say a cracked tooth, the end result is the satisfaction that your house won’t fall over, but it isn’t something you’re going to show off to your friends. (I mean really, how many people just can’t wait to show off their new grade beam?) The structures that make a house and the overall design of the house are the parts that matter the most. They cannot be discounted in the buying experience.
Enter the inspector. An inspector can give you information about your house and diagnose some problems before you buy. Inspectors are worthwhile to get a general visual assessment, and may be required by the bank, but any inspection is superficial. They can’t see into the wall or check for underground foundation drains. Some things are unknowable until you are living in the house. In addition to that, the inspector rarely knows much about how a design will impact a livable space. For example, is there passive solar, airflow, enough insulation? For a more thorough assessment, you can always have a builder, or someone else who is knowledgeable and trustworthy, look at the house as well. And research, research, research. On the upside, from a fiscal point of view, if you can catch a major problem, you can usually ask for a price reduction from the seller.
This may seem discouraging. Is home buying just a crapshoot? All of this made me start thinking about the important things to look for when shopping for a new house, particularly if you are open to remodeling. What matters, what doesn’t?
What are important things to look for when inspecting a house?
Here’s what we came up with:
Top Six Areas to Inspect in a Home:
1. The roof
The roof protects the whole house. It is the first line of defense against seasonal elements. There are many signs of a bad roof (curling, blistering, buckling, ceiling stains, faulty gutters) and a good inspector should notice serious problems by inspecting on the roof and inside attic spaces. However, knowing the age of your roof can help you determine when you may start to experience problems.
2. The foundation
The foundation is, quite literally, the rock upon which your house is built. It should be inspected for cracks, water damage, settling, and if possible, drainage. Age can be a factor in the integrity of a foundation, in addition to the region in which you live and the site on which the house sits.
3. Water damage/mold of any kind
Visually, mold or water damage is most common on ceilings, around sinks, toilets, and tubs in your bathroom or kitchen, around windows (both inside and out), and in soft peeling paint on the exterior of the house. Mold can also be smelled, especially in basements and crawl spaces under the house. Mold is an indication of a bigger problem in addition to being a potential health risk.
4. Home-grown electrical work/Bad wiring
Why oh why do people try to save money by doing their own electrical work? Faulty wiring is one of the leading causes of home fires every year. Exposed wires, uncovered electrical boxes, excessive use of electrical tape, and a general disorderly tangled mess are telltale signs of improper installations. A proper home inspection can usually determine if the loads are too much for the electrical service panel to handle.
5. High monthly energy bill
The energy bill gives you a good estimate of what you can expect to pay out every month. It can also point to insulation deficiencies, heating and cooling problems, or the need for window replacements. A home energy audit is the most easily available method of determining if your home is running efficiently and what aspects need to be fixed.
6. Plumbing
The pipes bringing you your drinking water are important for your health. Galvanized pipes are known to cause cancer. PVC easily freezes in winter and can break or leak. Copper and PEX piping are your best options for safe, healthy drinking water. You should inspect under sinks and in the basement and crawl spaces for any leaking pipes.
In the end taking your time and walking thru a house can tell you a lot. If you have access to the attic all the better. Make sure everything is dry. If it's the dry season be on the look-out for stains or mold. Try to find out how old the furnace or air conditioner is. Turn the faucet knobs on and off to see if they work. Don't be fooled by a fresh coat of paint. And if you really can't tell, ask a builder or remodeler to inspect it for you. A small fee can save you a lot of money.
These areas may not make for good television, but in the long run they will lead to peace of mind and allow you to focus on the more fun aspects of transforming your new house into your home.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Get The Lead out!
In April 2010 a new federal law will require contractors that disturb lead-based paint in homes built before 1978 to be certified in specific lead contamination practices. Additionally, all contractors will need to present to homeowners a pamphlet explaining lead removal information. Families looking to remodel older homes have always had to address the lead issue. Any contractor worth their weight will inform homeowners and take the appropriate precautions. This new law puts the responsibility on the contractor to educate homeowners and keep up with best practices for the removal of lead from the home during renovation. Of course, the more prepared homeowners are for a renovation, the smoother (and cheaper!) the process will be. The issue of lead in older homes is a real concern and one that warrants serious discussion.
According to the EPA, the chance of your home containing lead-based paint is:
• 24% if your home was built between 1960-1978
• 69% if your home was built between 1940-1960
• 87% if your home was built before 1940
If you are not sure whether your home has lead-based paint, you have several options before starting a home remodel project. The first option is to assume that your home does have lead-based paint and follow the precautions listed below. There is no harm in following the precautions and any good contractor will err on the side of caution anyway. Another option would be to have your contractor test for lead in your home using a lead test kit. These kits are easily available at hardware stores. Or, your third option would be to hire a certified professional to check for lead-based paint. This assessor will tell you if and where your home has lead-based paint.
Lead-based paint was used in more than 38 million homes until it was banned for residential use in 1978. The most common way people are exposed to lead is through dust. You can also get lead into your body from soil, paint chips, water, and household items like lead-glazed pottery or lead crystal. Lead dust, however, is usually invisible making it a particularly elusive danger. Lead gets into the body when it is swallowed or inhaled. You can swallow dust when you eat, play, or do normal hand-to-mouth activities. You can inhale lead if you breathe lead dust or fumes from lead-based paint. This is the most common way that lead gets into the body. Whenever lead-based paint is sanded, scraped, burned, brushed, blasted, or otherwise disturbed, you are at risk for exposure to lead. Projects that disturb lead-based paint, like cutting or demolition, can create dust and endanger your family, particularly small children under six years old.
In children, lead can affect children’s brains and nervous systems, causing reduced IQ, learning disabilities, and behavioral problems. Even children that appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their bodies. In adults, lead can cause high blood pressure and hypertension. Pregnant women exposed to lead can transfer the lead to their fetus.
Unfortunately, if a contractor is not aware of the risks associated with lead removal, this could spell potential health hazards for your family. As a homeowner you can take these precautions to protect your family from lead exposure during a remodel:
• Ask if the contractor is trained to perform lead-safe work practices and ask to see a copy of their training certificate.
• Ask your contractor what lead-safe methods they will use to perform the remodel.
• Share the results of any lead tests with the contractor.
• Specify in the work contract that the contractor follow the lead removal practices described below.
• Specify in the contract that the contractor take responsibility for cleaning the work area adequately.
The following precautions are recommended by the EPA and HUD to reduce exposure to lead dust during a remodel:
• The work areas should not be accessible to occupants while the work occurs. The rooms or area should be blocked off or sealed with plastic sheeting to contain the dust. The area cannot be accessed until work is completed and thoroughly cleaned.
• You should arrange for alternate bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen arrangements if work is occurring in those areas of your home. Or, you may consider vacating your home while the work is being done.
• You should secure a safe place for pets as they, too, can be poisoned by lead and can track dust into other areas of the home.
• Store furniture away from the area where the work is being done. If furniture cannot be moved, then wrap it in heavy plastic.
• Turn off air heating and air conditioning systems while work is done. This will prevent the dust from spreading through the air vents.
• Minimize the creation of dust by avoiding paint removal methods requiring burning, sanding, grinding, or blasting.
• Ensure that the work area is cleaned up daily using a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop.
• Once the work is complete, you can verify that the work area is free of lead by using a cleaning verification card (available at the EPA website listed below) or by having a professional lead test done. Either way, specify in the contract that the contractor is responsible for re-cleaning the work area if it fails the test.
Here are some additional resources to help you with lead related issues:
The National Lead Information Center: www.epa.gov/lead/nlic.htm
EPA Regional Office for Tennessee: (404) 562-9900
As with most home remodel issues, the more educated you are before you begin, the less likely it is that you will be surprised. Lead is a health concern that will be present in home remodels for quite some time. Luckily with the right precautions and a good choice of contractor, you can save yourself and your family any health-related stress.
Source: Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers and Schools. Published by the U.S. Environmental Protections Agency and the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development.
According to the EPA, the chance of your home containing lead-based paint is:
• 24% if your home was built between 1960-1978
• 69% if your home was built between 1940-1960
• 87% if your home was built before 1940
If you are not sure whether your home has lead-based paint, you have several options before starting a home remodel project. The first option is to assume that your home does have lead-based paint and follow the precautions listed below. There is no harm in following the precautions and any good contractor will err on the side of caution anyway. Another option would be to have your contractor test for lead in your home using a lead test kit. These kits are easily available at hardware stores. Or, your third option would be to hire a certified professional to check for lead-based paint. This assessor will tell you if and where your home has lead-based paint.
Lead-based paint was used in more than 38 million homes until it was banned for residential use in 1978. The most common way people are exposed to lead is through dust. You can also get lead into your body from soil, paint chips, water, and household items like lead-glazed pottery or lead crystal. Lead dust, however, is usually invisible making it a particularly elusive danger. Lead gets into the body when it is swallowed or inhaled. You can swallow dust when you eat, play, or do normal hand-to-mouth activities. You can inhale lead if you breathe lead dust or fumes from lead-based paint. This is the most common way that lead gets into the body. Whenever lead-based paint is sanded, scraped, burned, brushed, blasted, or otherwise disturbed, you are at risk for exposure to lead. Projects that disturb lead-based paint, like cutting or demolition, can create dust and endanger your family, particularly small children under six years old.
In children, lead can affect children’s brains and nervous systems, causing reduced IQ, learning disabilities, and behavioral problems. Even children that appear healthy can have dangerous levels of lead in their bodies. In adults, lead can cause high blood pressure and hypertension. Pregnant women exposed to lead can transfer the lead to their fetus.
Unfortunately, if a contractor is not aware of the risks associated with lead removal, this could spell potential health hazards for your family. As a homeowner you can take these precautions to protect your family from lead exposure during a remodel:
• Ask if the contractor is trained to perform lead-safe work practices and ask to see a copy of their training certificate.
• Ask your contractor what lead-safe methods they will use to perform the remodel.
• Share the results of any lead tests with the contractor.
• Specify in the work contract that the contractor follow the lead removal practices described below.
• Specify in the contract that the contractor take responsibility for cleaning the work area adequately.
The following precautions are recommended by the EPA and HUD to reduce exposure to lead dust during a remodel:
• The work areas should not be accessible to occupants while the work occurs. The rooms or area should be blocked off or sealed with plastic sheeting to contain the dust. The area cannot be accessed until work is completed and thoroughly cleaned.
• You should arrange for alternate bedroom, bathroom, and kitchen arrangements if work is occurring in those areas of your home. Or, you may consider vacating your home while the work is being done.
• You should secure a safe place for pets as they, too, can be poisoned by lead and can track dust into other areas of the home.
• Store furniture away from the area where the work is being done. If furniture cannot be moved, then wrap it in heavy plastic.
• Turn off air heating and air conditioning systems while work is done. This will prevent the dust from spreading through the air vents.
• Minimize the creation of dust by avoiding paint removal methods requiring burning, sanding, grinding, or blasting.
• Ensure that the work area is cleaned up daily using a HEPA vacuum and a wet mop.
• Once the work is complete, you can verify that the work area is free of lead by using a cleaning verification card (available at the EPA website listed below) or by having a professional lead test done. Either way, specify in the contract that the contractor is responsible for re-cleaning the work area if it fails the test.
Here are some additional resources to help you with lead related issues:
The National Lead Information Center: www.epa.gov/lead/nlic.htm
EPA Regional Office for Tennessee: (404) 562-9900
As with most home remodel issues, the more educated you are before you begin, the less likely it is that you will be surprised. Lead is a health concern that will be present in home remodels for quite some time. Luckily with the right precautions and a good choice of contractor, you can save yourself and your family any health-related stress.
Source: Renovate Right: Important Lead Hazard Information for Families, Child Care Providers and Schools. Published by the U.S. Environmental Protections Agency and the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development.
Tuesday, January 5, 2010
Energy Conservation in Older Homes
Often, when you read about energy-efficient homes, the focus is on design of new structures. I always think: “That’s great to put up solar panels, and design your house facing south, but what about the rest of us?” For homeowners in older homes without the resources to build a brand-new house, what can we do to increase the energy efficiency of our homes and save money on our power bills?
Weatherization and energy-efficient upgrades are the answer. Economically they pay for themselves after several years of use and take advantage of the existing structure of your home without the need for costly additions or major renovations.
Betsy Petttit, the author of the article “Can a Vintage Home Be Energy Efficient?” offers several suggestions for improving your home energy use without losing the charm of an older home. Pettit states that there are 58 million houses in America that were built before the 1970s. These homes remain in the market because people like the traditional floor plans, details, and historical significance. I know in Johnson City many old homes have hardwood floors and wood trim that are no longer available. An older home is a legacy that ties the owners to a continuity of a community that isn’t always available with new developments.
Luckily, old houses can be made much more energy efficient without losing any of the charm. In fact, energy conservation alone can lower your home energy use without the addition of new technologies like solar panels or passive cooling. In fact, air leaks can account for 30% of a home’s energy loss. Insulating your home is by far the easiest and most cost effective way to reduce your home energy consumption.
Pettit, herself an architect and owner of a renovation company, notes that infrastructure is the first area to examine with older homes. Water lines, wiring, plumbing, and mechanical systems are nearing the end of their useful lives after 100 years on the job. Windows are also a source of energy loss as they may have layers of paint or swollen wood that can hinder their ventilation ability.
If a homeowner is considering an addition, an alternative could be to take advantage of unused space in the basement or attic and include energy upgrades in the process. Pettit notes that this method doesn’t cost that much more because energy upgrades come up as decisions and choices are made about the project. She cites an example of replacing a heating or cooling system for $10,000, which results in $1000 a year of energy savings.
Of course, a qualified Green Building Contractor can help you make decisions about how to get the most for your money, but Pettit offers these Seven Steps to net-zero energy use:
• Upgrade the mechanical systems. This includes furnaces, boilers, window air conditioners, and
water heaters.
• Bring the basement and crawlspace inside the house. Warm, dry spaces increase the available
living and storage space. Spray foam can be used to rid wet basements of moisture that causes
high humidity levels and sources for mold growth.
• Superinsulate and air-seal the roof. Air-sealing and good insulating occur at the same time
allowing for a one-step process.
• Replace the windows. Pettit recommends Energy Star windows to keep out water and weather
extremes.
• Insulate the walls. Using cellulose in wall cavities is a cheap, easy, and effective way to
increase the warmth of your house.
• Buy Energy Star fixtures, appliances, and lighting. After structural and mechanical upgrades,
appliance energy loads are the next big source of energy loss in a home.
• Add a renewable-energy source. Pettit lists this strategy last because energy conservation
and reduction is necessary before such systems as photovoltaics or wind power are worth the
investment.
The idea of weatherization of existing homes is gaining popularity as an effective way to save money on energy costs without building a new home.
The U.S. Department of Energy, in its article “Single-Family Residential Building Weatherization” explains in detail the process of weathering your home. An interesting statistic cited in the article is that weatherization successfully reduces the average overall energy consumption of existing single-family residential dwellings by 12-23% or more.
The DOE recommends a comprehensive weatherization program that incorporates a whole-house approach. This approach examines all the systems of a house and improves them simultaneously to ensure that no energy-saving measure is lost and so that all the systems work together in the most effective way to reduce energy use. An added side benefit of this approach is a more healthy indoor environment as a comprehensive approach also examines areas where health-related problems could occur (such as carbon monoxide production, mold, radon, and contaminants). The systems examined under the whole-house approach include:
• Building shell (ceilings, walls, floors, windows, and doors)
• Heating and cooling equipment (including the control system and energy distribution system)
• Ventilation systems
• Domestic hot water system
• Lighting
The DOE states weatherization is needed for single-family homes not slated for major revitalization or renovation because “existing housing will likely represent the largest portion of the housing stock for many years to come.”
Five Steps to a Comprehensive Weatherization Program
1. A thorough home energy assessment is performed to identify house specific
deficiencies and opportunities. This assessment takes 2-4 hours.
Visual Inspection
A thorough visual inspection is performed to document current efficiency levels of the building shell, installed equipment, and lighting.
Diagnostic Testing
Diagnostic testing on the building and air distribution system is performed to determine current leakage rates and sources of leakage.
Current Operating Efficiencies
Heating and cooling equipment are gauged and potential health related problems are examined.
2. After the assessment, the costs and energy savings for each possible energy
conservation opportunity is identified and selected. Some repairs necessary for the proper performance of the selected measures may also be identified. By considering all of the opportunities at the same time, the measures selected will work together to reduce energy use most effectively.
3. Experienced installers implement the improvements. Choosing the right contractor is
essential if you want to gain the most advantage from your improvements.
4. Verification of the performance of the improvements is a crucial final step to ensure
that new systems are operating optimally and as intended.
5. Occupant education on the new systems aids in system optimization as they are
ultimately responsible for operating the systems. Topics frequently covered include:
filter changing, thermostat operation, strategies to reduce cooling load, and use of
whole house fans and ventilation systems.
Energy conservation is an often overlooked source of energy savings for older homes. Simple, cost effective renovations and remodels can improve the appearance of your home and save you money in energy costs. This post just touches the surface of weatherization, a process that can involve multiple strategies and complex decision-making. Having a knowledgeable contractor helping you through the process can result in a successful upgrade to your older home.
Resources:
Federal Energy Management Program: www.eren.doe.gov/femp/
National Energy Audit (NEAT) and Retrofit Guide available at the Oak Ridge National Laboratory website: www.eber.ed.ornl.gov
Sources:
Pettit, Betsy. Winter 2010. Can a Vintage Home Be Energy Efficient? Energy-Smart Homes.
U.S. Department of Energy. Sept. 1998. Single-Family Residential Building Weatherization.
Weatherization and energy-efficient upgrades are the answer. Economically they pay for themselves after several years of use and take advantage of the existing structure of your home without the need for costly additions or major renovations.
Betsy Petttit, the author of the article “Can a Vintage Home Be Energy Efficient?” offers several suggestions for improving your home energy use without losing the charm of an older home. Pettit states that there are 58 million houses in America that were built before the 1970s. These homes remain in the market because people like the traditional floor plans, details, and historical significance. I know in Johnson City many old homes have hardwood floors and wood trim that are no longer available. An older home is a legacy that ties the owners to a continuity of a community that isn’t always available with new developments.
Luckily, old houses can be made much more energy efficient without losing any of the charm. In fact, energy conservation alone can lower your home energy use without the addition of new technologies like solar panels or passive cooling. In fact, air leaks can account for 30% of a home’s energy loss. Insulating your home is by far the easiest and most cost effective way to reduce your home energy consumption.
Pettit, herself an architect and owner of a renovation company, notes that infrastructure is the first area to examine with older homes. Water lines, wiring, plumbing, and mechanical systems are nearing the end of their useful lives after 100 years on the job. Windows are also a source of energy loss as they may have layers of paint or swollen wood that can hinder their ventilation ability.
If a homeowner is considering an addition, an alternative could be to take advantage of unused space in the basement or attic and include energy upgrades in the process. Pettit notes that this method doesn’t cost that much more because energy upgrades come up as decisions and choices are made about the project. She cites an example of replacing a heating or cooling system for $10,000, which results in $1000 a year of energy savings.
Of course, a qualified Green Building Contractor can help you make decisions about how to get the most for your money, but Pettit offers these Seven Steps to net-zero energy use:
• Upgrade the mechanical systems. This includes furnaces, boilers, window air conditioners, and
water heaters.
• Bring the basement and crawlspace inside the house. Warm, dry spaces increase the available
living and storage space. Spray foam can be used to rid wet basements of moisture that causes
high humidity levels and sources for mold growth.
• Superinsulate and air-seal the roof. Air-sealing and good insulating occur at the same time
allowing for a one-step process.
• Replace the windows. Pettit recommends Energy Star windows to keep out water and weather
extremes.
• Insulate the walls. Using cellulose in wall cavities is a cheap, easy, and effective way to
increase the warmth of your house.
• Buy Energy Star fixtures, appliances, and lighting. After structural and mechanical upgrades,
appliance energy loads are the next big source of energy loss in a home.
• Add a renewable-energy source. Pettit lists this strategy last because energy conservation
and reduction is necessary before such systems as photovoltaics or wind power are worth the
investment.
The idea of weatherization of existing homes is gaining popularity as an effective way to save money on energy costs without building a new home.
The U.S. Department of Energy, in its article “Single-Family Residential Building Weatherization” explains in detail the process of weathering your home. An interesting statistic cited in the article is that weatherization successfully reduces the average overall energy consumption of existing single-family residential dwellings by 12-23% or more.
The DOE recommends a comprehensive weatherization program that incorporates a whole-house approach. This approach examines all the systems of a house and improves them simultaneously to ensure that no energy-saving measure is lost and so that all the systems work together in the most effective way to reduce energy use. An added side benefit of this approach is a more healthy indoor environment as a comprehensive approach also examines areas where health-related problems could occur (such as carbon monoxide production, mold, radon, and contaminants). The systems examined under the whole-house approach include:
• Building shell (ceilings, walls, floors, windows, and doors)
• Heating and cooling equipment (including the control system and energy distribution system)
• Ventilation systems
• Domestic hot water system
• Lighting
The DOE states weatherization is needed for single-family homes not slated for major revitalization or renovation because “existing housing will likely represent the largest portion of the housing stock for many years to come.”
Five Steps to a Comprehensive Weatherization Program
1. A thorough home energy assessment is performed to identify house specific
deficiencies and opportunities. This assessment takes 2-4 hours.
Visual Inspection
A thorough visual inspection is performed to document current efficiency levels of the building shell, installed equipment, and lighting.
Diagnostic Testing
Diagnostic testing on the building and air distribution system is performed to determine current leakage rates and sources of leakage.
Current Operating Efficiencies
Heating and cooling equipment are gauged and potential health related problems are examined.
2. After the assessment, the costs and energy savings for each possible energy
conservation opportunity is identified and selected. Some repairs necessary for the proper performance of the selected measures may also be identified. By considering all of the opportunities at the same time, the measures selected will work together to reduce energy use most effectively.
3. Experienced installers implement the improvements. Choosing the right contractor is
essential if you want to gain the most advantage from your improvements.
4. Verification of the performance of the improvements is a crucial final step to ensure
that new systems are operating optimally and as intended.
5. Occupant education on the new systems aids in system optimization as they are
ultimately responsible for operating the systems. Topics frequently covered include:
filter changing, thermostat operation, strategies to reduce cooling load, and use of
whole house fans and ventilation systems.
Energy conservation is an often overlooked source of energy savings for older homes. Simple, cost effective renovations and remodels can improve the appearance of your home and save you money in energy costs. This post just touches the surface of weatherization, a process that can involve multiple strategies and complex decision-making. Having a knowledgeable contractor helping you through the process can result in a successful upgrade to your older home.
Resources:
Federal Energy Management Program: www.eren.doe.gov/femp/
National Energy Audit (NEAT) and Retrofit Guide available at the Oak Ridge National Laboratory website: www.eber.ed.ornl.gov
Sources:
Pettit, Betsy. Winter 2010. Can a Vintage Home Be Energy Efficient? Energy-Smart Homes.
U.S. Department of Energy. Sept. 1998. Single-Family Residential Building Weatherization.
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